Historical Reenactments | Jessica Jewett

Dressgasm! Are you ready to die?

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This dress is so fabulous that it needs its own feature in my dressgasm blogs. Just look at it and then we’ll talk.

Right?!

I found this dress on Pinterest and I died over it. It comes from around the 1860s, my guess is around the Civil War, and it is mostly made of silk. For the most part, it is an ivory dress with what I would describe as sage green sections. My guess is the green was a little more vibrant originally but has faded over time. The caption originally said that it came with a daytime bodice and a nighttime bodice but I don’t have an example of the daytime bodice. The way we are seeing this dress right now is suitable for a ballroom.

What is really stunning about the ballgown to me is the detailing of the green felt rising in points along skirt to give the illusion of a gathered affect. Additionally, the scalloped edging along the bottom of the skirt matches well with the ivory fringe falling from scalloped detailing a little higher on the skirt. And then, of course, there is ivory lace detailing, which would appear to be too much for a dress that already has scalloped edges, fringe detailing, more than one color, etc., but everything comes together to create a beautiful garment. The green and ivory striped belt with rosette in the center seems to tie everything together and keep it grounded. Everything about the stress has design, structure and purpose, which shows exactly how skilled dressmakers of the 19th century were. The woman who wore this dress was probably quite wealthy because she could afford so much extra trim and silks in different colors. She clearly wanted to make the most of her dress by having a different bodice she could wear in the daytime.

Gettysburg Address, November 19, 1863

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Today marks the 148th anniversary of the Gettysburg Address given by Abraham Lincoln. The president was invited to the dedication of the new and incomplete Soldiers’ National Cemetery four months after the Battle of Gettysburg. He was really invited as an afterthought for “a few appropriate remarks” as the key speaker was Edward Everett. A master orator, Everett droned on for two hours before the president took the podium for a two minute speech. Afterward, Lincoln felt the speech was a failure, but Everett was impressed, saying it only took Lincoln two minutes to come to the point of what took him two hours.

There were 53,000 casualties in three days at Gettysburg. Picture an entire stadium of people dead or wounded over a 72-hour period. Now I hear they’re saying casualty estimates may be low. That is why the National Cemetery was necessary and why the president came to help dedicate it. That is why we still honor those dead today. They gave the ultimate sacrifice for their country.

The Gettysburg Address is arguably one of the most famous and celebrated speeches in American history. Here you may listen to it as read by Jeff Daniels, who played Joshua L. Chamberlain in the film Gettysburg, and then you may read the text of the speech below it. Really consider it. Does it still apply today?

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.

–Abraham Lincoln, 19 November, 1863

The Corset Guide: Part IV

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“So wearing a corset certainly changes your state of mind.” -Radha Mitchell

In The Corset Guide: Part I, we learned a little bit of the history of corsets, why women wear them today, the dissection of a corset, and the different styles available today. In The Corset Guide: Part II, we learned how to choose the right corset for you, how to be measured, and advice for plus size corsetry. In The Corset Guide: Part III, we learned the art of tight lacing, how to breathe, drink and eat in a corset, and ways to accessorize your corsetry look. Today, I thought I would go over some of the corsets I have and some of the ones I’m looking at acquiring in the future, as well as my recommendation for a great custom corset builder.

Originals by Kay

It can be very difficult to find someone who has the education, artistry and technical skills to make a corset designed specifically for your body. No two women are built alike and standard sizes don’t often work exactly as the body needs them to work. I began looking for a corset for Civil War reenacting several years ago but soon realized that seamstresses in that art weren’t quite sure how to work with my disability. Kay Gnagey was the only corset maker to respond to my inquiry favorably and found my disability no big obstacle because it’s all about proper measurement no matter what type of body is involved. I didn’t end up getting a custom corset because of financial trouble but a couple of years ago, my friend got one from Kay. It was beautifully made and fit her like a glove. While Kay specializes in 19th century corset styles made from patterns dated between 1800 and 1910, I don’t see any reason why they couldn’t be decorated to look modern. Fit, after all, is the most important thing and Kay builds her corsets based from measurements in centimeters rather than inches, which is more accurate. Communication with any corset maker you choose is very important. Don’t be afraid to tell the corset maker what you need!

Originals by Kay website: http://www.originals-by-kay.com

An 1857 Parisian corset by Kay Gnagey

My Corsets

I used to have many more corsets than I do now. As I learned about what works for me through years of trial and error, I found that I had to get rid of the ones that didn’t work. I’m in the process of restarting my collection now that I’m better versed in the corset culture. Here are some of the ones I held onto, including a party dress that hugs me with the stiffness of a corset.

Corsets to be Acquired

Now that I know what works for me, I’m looking at several to acquire in the next few years. I’m really picky about it though, so it takes me a long time to decide on one. For example, if I’m paying $250 or more for a corset, it better not have a zipper closure. I see that a lot. My appreciation for corsets is based in the little details and craftsmanship for the most part, although I’m not going to be that anal about a $25 fashion corset. You really get what you pay for, so if you’re looking for quality materials and construction, you better be willing to pay for that quality. It takes a long time to make a good corset and it’s not an easy process. That’s why they cost so much when they are custom made or constructed using better materials. Again, you have to understand the differences in fabric, shape, boning, etc., in order to make an informed decision through your selection process. Hopefully you’ve been reading my other corset blogs and you’re well on your way to making the right choices for you! Here are some corsets I’ve been looking at, ranging from $25 fashion corsets to $250+ custom made corsets.